Strange Days

I have on occasion stuck my nose out of the jetty in conditions that some might think me quite foolish. Conditions today weren’t that drastic, but they sure were different than anything I’ve seen in this area in all my time on the water. When I neared Pirates Cove I could see the waves breaking from both sides of the south jetty. The normally relatively calm cove was awash in clapotis and the water was covered in brown foam.

Other than the swells coming in, conditions outside the jetty looked pretty tame. I was surprised when I made the turn out of the harbor to see a surfer hanging out at the end of the jetty. It didn’t seem like the swells were big enough to give him much of a ride. The beaches were crowded and I could see as I looked down the coast that the waves were really churning as they hit the shores. Big Arch Rock was getting an occasional pounding and a life-guard boat was idling by the beach. Not my normal day on the water.

My paddle to the beach was uneventful as I glided through the brown goo. My beach was looking rather unmanageable as the swells rolled in. Low tide exposed all the rocks on the shore and there didn’t seem to be any save areas in the surf zone. Parts of reefs that don’t usually ever see the light of day were ringed in brown muddy water as the waves came and ebbed. I figured I wasn’t going to get much play it today.

I thought I had fixed the problem with the angle on my camera, but I see from my videos I did not. Today was just the kind of day I thought would make some great video, so I’m sorry so much didn’t turn out. I think I’ve got the solution, but it won’t bring back the shots I thought I had today.

After sitting a while way out, a surfer came out from the shore. The tide was moving in and seemed to be covering more of the shore, so I thought I’d sneak in a bit. Of course then a large outsider rolled in and the surfer and I parted directions-me to hopefully punch through it and he to ride it in. I got a pretty good dunking and was surprised to remain upright. Decided it was time to get out while I was ahead.

I stopped at BAR on my way back, where the waters were a constant foamy white. I had just about convinced myself to back my way in and play a bit when I noticed a large wave rolling in. It is very unusual to see wave break before hitting the rock, so I paddle out to get past it. I found he had three bigger buddies coming in behind him and I hightailed it out to find safer water.

Back at the jetty, I was even more surprised to find about 10 surfers milling around the rocks. Right about then, a massive wave rolled on in and a few surfers took off on a great ride. The set that rolled through wasn’t real high, but had a ton of water behind it. I thought about trying to catch a ride myself, but I wasn’t sure I’d ever get out of it before it hit the beach. I settled for watching the surfers as well as a pod of dolphins that seemed to be enjoying the surf as well.

Inside the jetty, I put down my rudder and moved in close to the jetty to try to get a little boost from the waves rolling in. I wasn’t having much luck until I got close to a small outcropping of rocks that flank out from the jetty. Right then a huge swell picked me up and sent me on the best ride I’ve ever had in a kayak. I was worried I might veer into the rocks, but my rudder kept going in a safe direction. I was running out of time, or I would have gone back to try to catch more rides there safe in the harbor.

Strange days indeed, all due to a slight change in swell direction. Turned out to be a top 5 day on the water. All I could think was too bad no one was out there with me. Got a couple videos that I hope people will enjoy and maybe I’ll just have to head out again tomorrow.


Strange Days Video






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Mark Sanders